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The article details the unfolding response from the Italian luxury fashion house, Prada, to accusations of cultural misappropriation following the release of their Spring-Summer 2026 collection at Milan Fashion Week. The controversy arose due to sandals featured in the collection that bore a striking resemblance to the traditional Kolhapuri chappals, a footwear style deeply rooted in the cultural heritage of Maharashtra, India. The absence of any acknowledgement or credit to the Indian origins of the design, coupled with a reported high price tag exceeding Rs 1 lakh, sparked outrage and accusations of plagiarism. This prompted a public interest litigation (PIL) in the Bombay High Court and widespread condemnation across social media platforms and fashion industry observers.
In the aftermath of the backlash, Prada took steps to address the concerns raised. A high-level team from the company visited Kolhapur, the heartland of Kolhapuri chappal craftsmanship, to engage directly with local artisans and stakeholders. The team's visit included interactions with shopkeepers in Chappal Galli, a renowned hub for Kolhapuri footwear, where they observed the display, packaging, and sales processes. They also held discussions with Collector Amol Yedge to gain a deeper understanding of the cultural significance and heritage associated with Kolhapuri sandals. Lalit Gandhi, president of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture (MACCIA), highlighted the professionalism displayed by the Prada team, noting their meticulous attention to detail and genuine interest in the craftsmanship involved in producing Kolhapuri footwear. However, he also emphasized the differences between Prada's high-fashion standards and the traditional, handcrafted nature of Kolhapuri chappals, awaiting their formal report to understand how the company intends to proceed.
Prior to the team's visit to Chappal Galli, they spent time at several Kolhapuri chappal manufacturing facilities, reviewing the production processes and collecting samples. This proactive engagement indicates a commitment to understanding the nuances of the craft and potentially incorporating authentic elements into future designs. MACCIA played a crucial role in facilitating dialogue between Prada and the Kolhapuri artisan community. The organization sent a formal letter to Patrizio Bertelli, chairman of the Prada Group, requesting acknowledgement of the traditional Kolhapuri footwear designs and proposing ethical collaboration. The letter emphasized the centuries-old craftsmanship embodied in Kolhapuri chappals, their symbolic importance to regional identity, and their role in supporting the livelihoods of thousands of artisans and families in the Kolhapur region and surrounding districts. MACCIA also pointed out the Geographical Indication (GI) tag granted to Kolhapuri chappals by the Indian government in 2019, underscoring their unique origin and protected status.
In response to MACCIA's letter, Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, issued a statement acknowledging the inspiration drawn from traditional Indian handcrafted footwear in the sandals featured in the controversial collection. He recognized the cultural significance of Indian craftsmanship and affirmed the company's commitment to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities. The statement also clarified that the collection was still in the early stages of design development and that no final decisions had been made regarding production or commercialization. This provided a degree of reassurance and suggested that Prada was open to incorporating feedback from the Kolhapuri artisan community.
Subsequent to the initial exchange of letters, MACCIA and Prada held a video meeting to further discuss the issue. During the meeting, Prada reiterated its acknowledgement of the design's heritage and expressed a commitment to protecting the GI tag and the rights of the Kolhapuri sandal craft. It was during this meeting that Prada announced its intention to send two teams to Kolhapur, the first being the technical team that recently completed its visit. The second team, comprising corporate business heads and other key personnel, is scheduled to visit Mumbai in early August to meet with MACCIA and other stakeholders. Lalit Gandhi expressed his hope that Patrizio Bertelli, the chairman of the Prada Group, would also participate in the visit, believing that it could pave the way for broader collaboration opportunities for artisans throughout Maharashtra.
Beyond simply addressing the immediate controversy, MACCIA has proposed a range of long-term engagement models between Prada and the Kolhapuri artisan community. These proposals include the formation of a joint working group comprising representatives from Prada, MACCIA, and artisan bodies to foster ongoing dialogue and collaboration; the development of co-branded artisan collections that would showcase the skills and traditions of Kolhapuri artisans; and the establishment of a Prada Artisan Excellence Lab-India to promote high-end design innovation, skill enhancement, and fair trade supply chain development. These initiatives aim to create sustainable economic opportunities for Kolhapuri artisans while preserving and promoting their cultural heritage.
In addition to the Kolhapuri chappals, MACCIA introduced Prada to several other unique crafts from Maharashtra, including silver payals (anklets) from Kolhapur (which also have a GI tag), a form of wax-filled gold jewelry awaiting GI tag recognition, Paithani saris, and garments adorned with Warli art created by Adivasi women. Prada reportedly responded positively to these suggestions, indicating a willingness to explore potential collaborations with artisans specializing in these crafts. The company's jewelry and fashion teams are expected to visit different regions of Maharashtra to further assess the feasibility of such partnerships. If Prada were to collaborate with artisans on Paithani saris or other crafts, it could generate significant economic opportunities and promote the cultural heritage of Maharashtra on a global scale. This proactive approach by MACCIA demonstrates a commitment to leveraging the controversy surrounding the Kolhapuri chappals as an opportunity to forge lasting and mutually beneficial relationships between international luxury brands and local artisan communities, ensuring the preservation and promotion of traditional crafts while empowering artisans through economic development and recognition.
The potential for co-branded collections and the Artisan Excellence Lab-India represent significant advancements beyond simple acknowledgement. These initiatives could fundamentally change how luxury brands engage with traditional crafts, moving from appropriation to genuine collaboration. They offer a framework for other brands to follow, promoting ethical sourcing, cultural respect, and the economic empowerment of artisans. The success of this collaboration hinges on Prada's genuine commitment to fair trade practices, transparent communication, and a willingness to share profits equitably. It also requires a strong commitment from MACCIA and the artisan communities to ensure that the cultural integrity of their crafts is maintained and that the benefits of the partnership are distributed fairly.
The article concludes with a cautiously optimistic outlook, emphasizing the potential benefits of a successful collaboration between Prada and the artisans of Maharashtra. However, it also acknowledges the challenges involved in bridging the gap between high-fashion standards and traditional handcrafted techniques. The visit by the Prada team represents a crucial first step in a complex and ongoing process. The subsequent visit by corporate business heads and the potential involvement of Patrizio Bertelli will be pivotal in determining the long-term viability of the proposed partnerships. Ultimately, the success of this initiative will depend on a genuine commitment to ethical collaboration, cultural respect, and sustainable economic development, ensuring that the rich artistic heritage of Maharashtra is not only preserved but also celebrated and shared with the world.
The situation serves as a broader lesson for the fashion industry, highlighting the importance of cultural sensitivity and ethical sourcing. Brands must move beyond simply drawing inspiration from other cultures and instead engage in meaningful dialogue and collaboration with the communities that originate these traditions. This requires a willingness to acknowledge the cultural significance of these crafts, to provide fair compensation to the artisans who create them, and to ensure that the benefits of global recognition are shared equitably. By embracing responsible design practices and fostering cultural exchange, the fashion industry can play a positive role in preserving cultural heritage and promoting economic development in communities around the world. This incident, while initially negative, presents an opportunity for Prada to set a new standard for ethical engagement and collaboration within the fashion industry, demonstrating a commitment to cultural sensitivity and responsible business practices that can serve as a model for other brands to emulate. The potential benefits extend beyond the immediate economic impact, fostering a greater appreciation for cultural diversity and promoting a more inclusive and equitable fashion ecosystem.
Source: After chappal row, Prada team lands in Kolhapur, meets craftspeople